Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Homeowners Series Part 1 - Centipedegrass

      Thru the spring I often get asked the question, what is wrong with my lawn? Today I am going start a series of entries that will provide you with do-it-yourself plans to maintain your own lawn.
      The first in this list I will cover is Centipedegrass. Centipede is one of the most common home lawn turf's in the southeastern United States and St. James is no different. Below is some basic guidelines to managing a Centipedegrass Lawn

Spring (March - May)
    
      Begining in mid-March you want to start mowing your lawn. Set your mower to 1 to 1-1/2" and mow as soon as your lawn greens up. In the early spring you will mow irregularly according to weather patterns. Once every two weeks is very common until late April. At that time you want to begin to mow at intervals of ten days maximum.
       One of the most common mistakes made by homeowners with Centipede is to prematurely fertilize. Centipede requires an extremely low amount of Nitrogen per year. The first application of fertilizer should not be made until, at least, mid May. If you would like to add color to your lawn, without promoting growth, the local home improvement stores carry a product called (Ironite 1-0-1). The iron in this product will help to green the turf without contributing to excessive growth.
      Weed control can also begin at this time. A preemergence application for crabgrass should be made when flowering Dogwoods are in full bloom. This phenological indicator determines an ideal time when the soil temperature encourages crabgrass and goosegrass germination. Any local home store will carry products labeled for preemergent crabgrass control. Try to be as careful as possible selecting the correct one. Make sure that you use a preemergent with as little nitrogen as possible.
      While goose and crabgrass are still in the soil you may see a few broadleaf weeds popping up in your lawn. Typically around early-mid April after a decent rain you will notice them poppiing above the Centipede canopy. Do not be alarmed. Broadlaef weeds are relatively easy and inexpensive to control. However, Centipede is EXTREMELY SENSITIVE to many broadleaf herbicides, so make sure to follow the label as it pertains to Centipede lawns.
      Assuming you have the luxury of an irrigation system you should begin to water regularly through the spring. Provide your lawn with one inch of irrigation per week. At this time you should do a system check as well. Run your irrigation zones individually. Check each sprinkler head for proper operation. Make sure they are rotating correctly and hitting all areas of your lawn. Watch for excessive overlap and puddling. Excessive water can be just as detrimental to your lawn as insufficient irrigation.
      One more topic that needs to be covered in the Spring is disease control. The most common disease I see in Centipede lawns is large patch. At left is a picture of large patch. This disease can be seen in the spring as your lawn begins to green up. Large patch can be easily controlled with many fungicides that can be purchased at any Home Improvement store as well as farm supply stores. Make sure to follow label instructions for safe and effective use. Depending on temperatures and timing it may take some time for the diseased turf to regain color and vigor so be patient.


Summer (June - August)

      The mowing guidelines are the same in the summer as late spring. Mow at least once every ten days at 1 1/2". Irrigation should also remain constant. Continue to provide the turf with one inch per week. In the case of localized dry spots and increase in run time should be considered. Also, remember to routinely check your sprinkler coverage for proper function.
      In mid to late June you can begin to apply fertilizer. A complete organic fertilizer  should be considered for application. Using an organic allows you some room for error, i.e. overlap, limited water, etc. It will also provide you with some slow release nitrogen. The slow release will limit your chance for fertilizer burn and will provide you with longer lasting results.
      It is recommended to apply 1/2 of a pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sqft. Most fertilizer bags list a corresponding spreader setting on the bag. Follow these settings listed on the bag for the rate that you desire. If you have any questions related to fertilizer and settings, leave a comment and I will respond with any help I can provide.
      A second application of fertilizer may be made in mid-August if necessary. Apply the same product at the same rate as the June application. Again, follow the guidelines provided on the bag for proper application.
      Summer is also a time when insects begin to present a problem. Fire ants and grubs are the most common pests to lawn turf. This product, applied in mid to late June should provide season long control of white grubs. Follow label instructions for proper application rates.
      Fire ants are another common lawn pest. TopChoice is the most effective and commonly used product for fire ant control. TopChoice can be purchased at any farm supply store. The generic version is also available in most Home Improvement stores. Any product containing the active ingredient, fipronil will be effective against fire ants. Follow the instructions for the product for safe and effective treatment.
      Weed control in the summer is similar to the spring. Apply broadleaf herbicide to control any broadleaf weeds that may be present. Remember to follow the label closely. The only difference in summer weed control from spring may be the presence of goose or crabgrass. Your best action plan would be manual removal of these weeds. Most of the effective herbicides on the market for goose and crab are not recommeneded on centipedegrass.
         
     

Fall (September - November)


      Mowing practices in the fall are the same as the summer. The one caveat is to raise your mowing height several weeks prior to the first expected frost. The first frost is typically mid-late October in Southport. Monitor weather patterns and forecasts for frost warnings and advisories.
      Irrigation should also continue to provide the turf with one inch of irrigation per week. This amount should continue until the lawn becomes dormant. At this time irrigation should be limited to only provide moisture during extremely dry conditions.
      One more application of fertilizer should also be applied several (4-6) weeks before the first frost. We want to apply one pound of potassium per thousand square feet. Potassium Sulfate (0-0-50) would be the ideal product for this time of year. Most Home Improvement stores do not carry this product. However, all farm supply stores should have a stock of potassium nitrate available for the homeowner.
      Insect control in the fall should be relatively light. Fire ants can still be active, although if you followed the summer guidelines you shouldn't have any fire ants.
      Weed control will continue to follow the guidelines mentioned for the summer months. Remember that centipede is extremely sensitive to herbicides, so follow the label carefully.



Winter (December - February)


      Irrigation should only be applied during extreme dry spells through the winter. Now is the time to provide preventative maintenance on you irrigation system. Leveling and/or replacing sprinkler heads should be done at this time. Through the summer the sprinklers can sink into the soil. Now is the time to raise them to an effective operating height. Also, lower any sprinklers that may interfere with your mowing during the growing months.
      No fertilization is necessary during the winter months for centipedegrass. You may want to take a soil sample and have it tested for nutrient deficiencies and pH levels. Lime or sulfur may be applied if the soil test suggests.
      Weed control again becomes a chore in the winter months. Winter annual broadleaf weeds and annual blugrass begin to emerge above the dormant centipede under the mild winter conditions. In early December, applying this product will control these weeds through the winter. A second application in January may be necessary for heavily infested lawns. And as always remember to follow label instructions for safe and effective treatment.



Other information


      Although most issues with centipede are seasonal, there are a few items that negatively affect centipedegrass that are worth mentioning.
      Compaction can be very detrimental to a centipede lawn. Parking a car on centipedegrass, even a few times, can ruin your lawn. Try to be aware of this when company comes into town. Do not allow vehicles to park on your turf. Also, avoid travelling the same path in your yard. Everyone has there favorite path to the backyard. Walking in the same area continuosly will affect centipedegrass more than any other turf. So try to alternate routes with mowing and just on your morning stroll around the yard.


      Ground pearls (at left) are another pest that I did not mention in the above section. Ground pearls are an insect that feeds on the roots of turf. They affect each turf differently. Ground pearls on Centipedegrass are very aggresive. The slow growth habit of Centipede allows the negative effects of this pest to cause irrepairable damge to your lawn. If you suspect ground pearls is affecting your lawn contact your local cooperative extension agent for more information on how to manage life with ground pearls.


      Following these guidelines above are just a basic annual lawn plan for Centipedegrass. Location, soil type and other local factors can influence turf performance differently. Make sure to adjust your techniques differently to suit your specific lawn.




  

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